We have exciting news!! 🤩
𝗬𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗦𝘂𝗺𝗺𝗲𝗿𝘀𝘃𝗶𝗹𝗹𝗲 𝗠𝗮𝗶𝗻 𝗮𝗰𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀 𝗵𝗮𝘀 𝗷𝘂𝘀𝘁 𝗯𝗲𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗲 𝗹𝗲𝗴𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗺𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗽𝗲𝗿𝗺𝗮𝗻𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗹𝘆 𝗽𝗿𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗰𝘁𝗲𝗱!
Yesterday, Governor Jim Justice (along with the world-famous Baby Dog) signed into law West Virginia's newest park, the 𝘚𝘶𝘮𝘮𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘷𝘪𝘭𝘭𝘦 𝘚𝘵𝘢𝘵𝘦 𝘗𝘢𝘳𝘬!
This designation is a huge win for climbers, as one of the top priorities of this new park is to provide and maintain free and permanent access to our world-class climbing such as the 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘪𝘴𝘦𝘶𝘮, 𝘓𝘰𝘯𝘨 𝘞𝘢𝘭𝘭, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘖𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦 𝘖𝘴𝘸𝘢𝘭𝘥 𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘴. Access to these areas have always been through private property, we can all now rest assured that no future access issues will ever arise for these crags.
𝗕𝘂𝘁 𝘄𝗮𝗶𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲'𝘀 𝗺𝗼𝗿𝗲!
Effective immediately, there is a new expanded parking area and a shorter trail leading to our favorite crags. To access this, follow signs for climber parking out the back of the old parking area and onto the trail signed for Pirates Cove.
NRAC will be working very closely with the West Virginia Department of Tourism and the Division of Natural Resources to come up with a management and development plan that ensures rock climbing access remains a top priority for West Virginia's newest state park. 𝗕𝗲 𝘀𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗸 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗼𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗰𝗶𝗮𝗹𝘀 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗶𝗻𝘃𝗲𝘀𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗼𝘂𝘁𝗱𝗼𝗼𝗿 𝗿𝗲𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗲𝗰𝗼𝗻𝗼𝗺𝘆!
𝘗.𝘚.- 𝘛𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘯𝘦𝘸 𝘱𝘢𝘳𝘬 𝘪𝘯𝘤𝘭𝘶𝘥𝘦𝘴 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘧𝘰𝘳𝘮𝘦𝘳𝘭𝘺 𝘱𝘳𝘪𝘷𝘢𝘵𝘦 𝘭𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘯𝘰𝘳𝘵𝘩 𝘰𝘧 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘣𝘳𝘪𝘥𝘨𝘦 𝘸𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘦 𝘤𝘭𝘪𝘮𝘣𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘩𝘢𝘷𝘦 𝘵𝘺𝘱𝘪𝘤𝘢𝘭𝘭𝘺 𝘱𝘢𝘳𝘬𝘦𝘥 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘩𝘪𝘬𝘦𝘥 𝘪𝘯𝘵𝘰 𝘚𝘶𝘮𝘮𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘷𝘪𝘭𝘭𝘦 𝘮𝘢𝘪𝘯 𝘤𝘭𝘪𝘮𝘣𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘴. 𝘛𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘯𝘦𝘸 𝘱𝘢𝘳𝘬 𝘩𝘢𝘴 𝘯𝘰𝘵 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘸𝘪𝘭𝘭 𝘯𝘰𝘵 𝘢𝘧𝘧𝘦𝘤𝘵 𝘢𝘯𝘺 𝘤𝘭𝘪𝘮𝘣𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘰𝘳 𝘢𝘯𝘺 𝘳𝘦𝘭𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘥 𝘳𝘦𝘨𝘶𝘭𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘴 𝘰𝘯 𝘜𝘚 𝘈𝘳𝘮𝘺 𝘊𝘰𝘳𝘱𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘌𝘯𝘨𝘪𝘯𝘦𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘱𝘦𝘳𝘵𝘺, 𝘪𝘯𝘤𝘭𝘶𝘥𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘥𝘦𝘦𝘱 𝘸𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘳 𝘴𝘰𝘭𝘰 𝘢𝘣𝘰𝘷𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘭𝘢𝘬𝘦 𝘪𝘵𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘧.
▶️ 𝗕𝗲 𝘀𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝘀𝗵𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝘀 𝗽𝗼𝘀𝘁 𝘁𝗼 𝘀𝗽𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗻𝗲𝘄𝘀!
Recently, NRAC was awarded a grant from the 𝘈𝘤𝘤𝘦𝘴𝘴 𝘍𝘶𝘯𝘥 to help us install and stock Wag Bag boxes at popular crags.
𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝗮 𝗪𝗮𝗴 𝗕𝗮𝗴?
Plainly put, a Wag Bag is a bag that you poop in so that human waste doesn't end up polluting our precious climbing areas. They are easy to use and convenient, and they contain a waste treatment powder that counters unpleasant smells.
𝗪𝗵𝘆 𝘂𝘀𝗲 𝗮 𝗪𝗮𝗴 𝗕𝗮𝗴?
Once a climbing area gains a certain level of popularity, it inevitably reaches a critical mass of CRAP. At this point, there are too many people trying to use limited space, and well, the results are quite shite. This problem is exacerbated at Summersville Lake where there is often very little dry real estate for climbers to occupy. This is why you should always pack out your waste and never dig a cat hole at Summersville.
𝗛𝗼𝘄 𝗗𝗼 𝗜 𝘂𝘀𝗲 𝗶𝘁?
The stations have instructions on them, but there is a large bag with litter inside of a smaller sealable bag. Take your dump in the large bag, wriggle that turd around until it's coated in the litter, and then seal the whole thing in the sealable bag and throw it in a trash can.
𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝘀𝗲 𝗪𝗮𝗴 𝗕𝗮𝗴 𝗦𝘁𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀?
You can find one at Sandstonia, Whippoorwill, Summersville Main at the bottom of the steps, and Orange Oswald.
𝘗𝘭𝘦𝘢𝘴𝘦 𝘥𝘰 𝘯𝘰𝘵 𝘵𝘢𝘬𝘦 𝘮𝘰𝘳𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘺𝘰𝘶 𝘯𝘦𝘦𝘥, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘱𝘭𝘦𝘢𝘴𝘦 𝘋𝘖𝘕𝘈𝘛𝘌 𝘣𝘺 𝘶𝘴𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘤𝘰𝘯𝘷𝘦𝘯𝘪𝘦𝘯𝘵 𝘘𝘙 𝘤𝘰𝘥𝘦 𝘧𝘰𝘶𝘯𝘥 𝘰𝘯 𝘦𝘢𝘤𝘩 𝘣𝘰𝘹!
Nina is one of the 𝗔𝗰𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀 𝗙𝘂𝗻𝗱 𝗡𝗲𝘄 𝗥𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝗚𝗼𝗿𝗴𝗲 𝗖𝗹𝗶𝗺𝗯𝗲𝗿 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱𝘀, and we are super excited that they are here.
"Nina(they/she) hails from Baltimore, Maryland where they were recently working as a rock climbing team coach for Movement Gyms. They were introduced to climbing in 2014 when they stumbled upon a Via Ferrata in Docksta, Sweden on a hiking trail and it's been history ever since. Forever hooked now, Nina is passionate about sharing their love for the sport and the outdoors in this position with Access Fund. Their background is strong in building a strong group culture and character curriculum, Nina is very excited to dive into creating fun new ways to get folks involved in stewardship. When not climbing, Nina has a recycled rope business "Take Up" they enjoy working on as well as getting out on the water and in the air on their slackline or silks."
Be sure to grab a ☕ this Friday at Kaymoor and say hi to Nina! Bring your own coffee cup and stop by the Access Fund tent.
𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗔𝗰𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀 𝗙𝘂𝗻𝗱 𝗡𝗲𝘄 𝗥𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝗚𝗼𝗿𝗴𝗲 𝗖𝗹𝗶𝗺𝗯𝗲𝗿 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱𝘀 𝘄𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗯𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗼𝘂𝗻𝗱 𝗮𝗹𝗹 𝘀𝗲𝗮𝘀𝗼𝗻 𝘂𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗹 𝗢𝗰𝘁𝗼𝗯𝗲𝗿.
We are excited to introduce you to one of the 𝗔𝗰𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀 𝗙𝘂𝗻𝗱 𝗡𝗲𝘄 𝗥𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝗚𝗼𝗿𝗴𝗲 𝗖𝗹𝗶𝗺𝗯𝗲𝗿 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱𝘀 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯!
"Grisha (they/them) is from Richmond, VA where they spend their time studying Environmental Science and Outdoor leadership at Virginia Commonwealth University. Grisha was first introduced to climbing at the New River Gorge during their first year in school where they pursued leadership positions in their Outdoor collegiate program. After pursuing climbing instruction, their passion for climbing was catalyzed, and the beautiful places that climbing would take them. After involving themself in outdoor educator roles across the nation, the New River Gorge called back to them and they're excited to fill this position with Access Fund as a New River Gorge Climber Steward. Grisha is most excited to meet all the new and returning climbers at the New and to get a chance to share resources for climbers to understand what crag stewardship looks like and how we can all take care of places we love to climb at!"
𝘉𝘦 𝘴𝘶𝘳𝘦 𝘵𝘰 𝘴𝘵𝘰𝘱 𝘣𝘺 𝘊𝘭𝘪𝘮𝘣𝘦𝘳 𝘊𝘰𝘧𝘧𝘦𝘦 𝘦𝘢𝘤𝘩 𝘍𝘳𝘪𝘥𝘢𝘺 𝘵𝘩𝘳𝘰𝘶𝘨𝘩 𝘚𝘶𝘯𝘥𝘢𝘺 𝘧𝘳𝘰𝘮 9𝘢𝘮 - 12𝘱𝘮 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘴𝘢𝘺 𝘩𝘦𝘺 𝘵𝘰 𝘎𝘳𝘪𝘴𝘩𝘢!
Check out our previous post to learn more about what the Stewards will be up to this season and where they will be!
A message from Matt, our President:
"I first want to thank all our donors, volunteers, and those who support and continue to support our organization! None of our work would be made possible without your support!
This week I traveled to Washington, DC, where several of us have spent the last few days with the Access Fund (@accessfund) lobbying our senators to support America's Outdoor Recreation Act (AORA) and Protect America's Rock Climbing Act (PARCA).
Fixed anchors in the wilderness are threatened due to policy changes in land managing agencies.
AORA and PARCA are bipartisan bills that aim to protect fixed anchors in the wilderness and establish rock climbing as an officially recognized and accepted the use of wilderness areas.
This matters to us at the NRG even though none of our climbing is in wilderness areas because many of us travel and climb in these threatened areas. They are part of our community.
Senators seemed receptive to our plea and promised to support outdoor recreation industries. However, the fight is far from over, as we expect bill markups sometime around May. It'll require more action by writing our legislators to support AORA/PARCA.
We've been working on revamping our rebolting program. We hosted a training day where we taught some of the ins and outs of bolt replacement techniques, and we will continue to train a new cohort of rebolters. We'll also rebolt much of the Tattoo Wall at Bubba City in April.
Our largest trail-building project of the year, (Not) Work Week, is happening from May 13th-20th! Sign-ups will open up shortly, so stay tuned and be sure to sign up to volunteer!
The Climber Stewards Program is back in partnership with the Access Fund! This program was wildly successful last year, and we're excited to continue it. So be on the lookout for the Stewards at the Crag from May thru October!
Meadow River access... While I have nothing definitive to offer now, many of our brightest minds are all working hard to restore access. The future looks bright.
Let's keep working together to preserve our well-loved climbing areas!"
In an effort to remove parking and people from the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the meadow river, the West Virginia Department of Highways has created a new parking area on the left side of Deitz Road.
To get there, turn off Route 19 onto Underwood Road and left onto Deitz Road. You should see the parking lot on the left.
This lot can fit about 20 vehicles, so please carpool to the crag!
Parking is not permitted on the shoulder of Route 19!
Hope everyone is enjoying the great weather this week!
In late October, 2013, large boulders blocking the road appeared on Propp’s Ridge Rd. and the old railroad grade that parallels the Meadow River on its south/west side. These boulders have effectively blocked vehicular access to the Meadow’s Southside Crags including Area 51, The Other Place, Orange Wall, Mud Hueco, Brilliant Pebble, Rehab Crag and the crags along Glade Creek, which parallels Propp’s Ridge Rd.
For NRAC, and locals, this came as no surprise. Land ownership along the Meadow and Glade Creek has been in a state of flux since long before climbers began to explore the Meadow River cliff line, which they did on foot, hiking in from Highway 19 along the railroad tracks which were still in place. It wasn’t until 1999 that the tracks were pulled up and climbers began to drive in and park along the Meadow River to access the climbing areas. For those around at the time, the easy access had a too-good-to-be-true feel to it, and losing it wasn’t an issue of if, but when.
Immediately after the roads were blocked, representatives from NRAC began discussions with land owners, the National Park Service, the County Commission, and others to explore options that would allow for continued access to the climbing resources along the Meadow River’s Southside crags.