Download a copy of the Climbing Management Plan

Historically, climbers around the nation have had ample reason to quake in fear whenever the words "climbing management plan" were bandied about. Faced with ever-increasing numbers of climbers on public land, managers sometimes take what appears to them to be the most sensible action, that of unreasonably restricting climbing. In 2005, the New River Gorge followed suit and implemented its own climbing management plan.

Now don't get all jumpy! Unlike some managers, who have applied general solutions to specific challenges, Park personnel capitalized on their long-standing amiable relationship with climbers and invited us to add our input. With a seat at the table, climbers lent their opinions, and together we hammered out a plan that takes our unique situation into account while also respecting the natural environment.

The following is a simple list of rules we, as climbers, are obliged to follow. Your cooperation in doing so will go a long way toward maintaining the healthy, beneficial relationship we enjoy with Park - a relationship, by the way, that climbers and land managers in some other areas are left to both admire and envy.

1. New fixed anchors in the Park and other areas that the Park administers, such as parts of the Meadow & Gauley River Gorges, are allowed only via Permit. For a drilling permit application, contact the NPS at 304-465-0508.
2. Limit damage to fragile cliff-top environments by using fixed top anchors instead of trees and by not removing moss, lichens, leaves and other fragile vegetation.
3. If you find a loose bolt, hand tighten only. Over tightening by wrench can severely weaken the bolt.
4. Report bad hardware, anchors and bolts via the Contact Us Page.
5. If feasible, rappel from top anchors instead of lowering. Never toprope directly through those anchors. Always use your own slings and carabiners.
6. Fixed slings and draws are prohibited.
7. Do not remove fixed hardware.
8. Use chalk sparingly.

Also, in general:

1. Camping is not allowed within 100 feet (30m) of trails, parking areas, water sources and historic sites. Camping is also not allowed within 300 feet (100m) of any cliff top or bottom.
2. Some climbers seem to feel it’s okay to litter energy-bar rappers, cigarette butts, athletic tape and other odds and ends. Let’s not be those climbers.
3. If restrooms are unavailable, please bury your waste in cat holes at least 6-8 inches deep and no closer than 200 feet (60m) to trails, parking areas, water sources and historic sites.
4. To help limit the spread of parasites that can damage delicate vegetation, do not bring your own firewood from out-of-town areas. Likewise, don’t bring any from the Gorge home with you.
5. Please respect wildlife. Don’t kill or otherwise bother anything you see. Instead, just admire it from afar.

Safety wise ...

Poison Ivy

Save yourself a world of hurt and learn to recognize poison ivy. We also have two species of venomous snake in abundance, the northern copperhead and the timber rattler. A copperhead’s favorite hang out is among the leaves that collect at the bottoms of cliffs. Do not drink water directly from area streams, lakes and rivers. And lastly, be aware that hunting IS allowed in the Park and Park-managed areas. The Park recommends we wear blaze orange during hunting seasons. In case of emergency, 911 works anyplace you have phone reception. The closest hospital to the New River Gorge is Plateau Medical Center, in Oak Hill. The closest hospital to Summersville Lake and the Meadow River Gorge is Summersville Memorial Hospital.

Download a copy of the Climbing Management Plan