The New River Region is one of the most extensive climbing areas in the nation! These directions will get you to the cliff if you’re looking to hike around and check it out. If you plan on climbing at these areas it is highly recommended that you pick up a proper climbing guidebook available at Water Stone Outdoors. A guidebook will give more detailed directions and information on the specific routes.
|
|
Written by Mike Williams
|
|
The cliffs at the Meadow River offer some of the best rock and climbs in the region.
Access:
From the intersection of Court St. 16 and Hwy.19 in Fayetteville, drive north on Hwy.19 for 13 miles. Thirteen miles from Fayetteville you will cross over the Meadow River Bridge and see the crag on the north rim of the gorge off to your left. Turn left onto Underwood Rd 0.5 miles after crossing the bridge. Park in the large gravel lot that immediately appears on your right on Underwood Rd. From the parking area hike up Deitz Rd, paralleling the highway for 0.25 miles until the road makes a bend to the right. Cut into the woods on a well-traveled dirt road. Walk down this dirt road ignoring any smaller roads that break off to either side. You’ll eventually come down a rocky section of road and the cliff will start to pick up on your right. For the Lower Meadow areas continue along this road to the cliffs. For the Upper Meadow Areas turn left onto another dirt road and follow it down to the river. Pass beneath the bridge and hike upstream for about 15 minutes looking for a trail that heads uphill to the left. It leads to the First Buttress. Hiking right along the cliff base leads to more climbing. |
|
Written by Mike Williams
|
|
Beauty Mountain offers a wide variety of excellent traditional and sport climbs.
Access:
From Court St. in Fayetteville head north on Hwy 19 for 2.3 miles. Turn right on Lansing Rd. Drive down Lansing Road 2.8 miles, then turn right on Beauty Mountain Rd. About 100 yards down Beauty Mountain Road is a three way split at the Beauty Mountain parking area. Pull straight in between the middle and right forks making sure you leave room for other cars. From the parking area, hike down the middle gravel road. You will pass some houses and a locked Park Service gate. The road bends to the right and passes along the top of Garbage Wall before it cuts steeply downhill through the cliff band. Near the bottom of the steep section look for a 'Climber Information' sign on your left that marks the trail. Cut left off the gravel road and follow this trail. A short distance after crossing Short Creek you will find yourself at the base of The Brain, the first collection of routes. |
|
Written by Mike Williams
|
|
All of the climbing at Summersville Lake is located near the water. The swimming here is as good as the climbing.
Access:
From the intersection of Court St. 16 and Hwy.19 in Fayetteville drive north on Hwy.19 for 21.9 miles. Just after passing over the bridge crossing Summersville Lake you’ll see a large gravel parking lot on the right. Pull in and park here. From the parking lot, hike in past the locked gate and continue along the dirt road. As you descend the hill on the back side of the rise the road will fork. Take the left fork and cross the stream. After the stream crossing the road forks again. Turn right into the forest. Two hundred feet after entering the forest is another fork in the road. Stay to the right. Hike along this dirt road for about five minutes until an obviously worn trail cuts downhill to the right at an elegantly curved hemlock. This short stretch of trail crosses a stream and brings you to the access ladder.
|
|
Written by Mike Williams
|
|
Recent projects: Trailhead Kiosk / Fencing
Bubba City is one of the most popular climbing areas in the region. In general the cliffs are a bit shorter and offer some excellent moderate climbing. Access to the cliff requires walking through private land owned by the Wild Rock development. It is required that you stop at Class VI River Runners to fill out a waiver before hiking to the cliffs.
Bubba City Parking:
This parking lot is used to access the upstream portion of Bubba City including the Beer Wall.
From Court St. 16 in Fayetteville drive 2.3 miles north on Hwy 19. Turn left onto Ames Heights Road. 0.7 miles down this road Ames Heights Road turns into Chestnutburg Road at a large sign for Class VI River Runners. Continue another 0.25 miles down Chestnutburg Road to Class VI and Wild Rock. Stop in and get your waiver filled out. From Class VI, continue down Chestnutburg Road another 0.6 miles to a large parking lot on your right. This is the main Bubba City parking area. Cross Chestnutburg Road without getting hit by a car. Hike along the well-marked single track trail beneath the power line. This trail goes up a slight hill. About 50 yards down the back slope of the hill, turn left on to the Falls Creek Trail. Follow this trail a short distance to a sign indicating climber’s access that directs you across the neighborhood road. Follow this trail to the rim of the gorge and down some ladders to the cliff base.
Good Luck Cemetery Parking:
This parking area is used to access the downstream portion of Bubba City including the Tattoo Wall.
Continue 0.3 miles past the Bubba City parking area and park at the Cemetery. From the Cemetery hike north along the power line cut to the fourth power tower. Turn left and follow the trail that leads to the base of the cliff near the Tattoo Wall.
Respect the cemetary property - this is an important place to many local residents! |
|
|
|
|
